France has rejected China’s accusations that its new anti-fast-fashion law unfairly targets Chinese companies, saying the measures are intended to protect the environment and consumers rather than discriminate against foreign businesses.
The dispute follows the implementation of France’s new rules this week, which impose additional fees on certain ultra-fast-fashion products sold in the country. Major online platforms including Shein, Temu and AliExpress are among the businesses affected.
China has called on France to suspend the legislation, describing it as discriminatory and warning that Beijing could take unspecified measures to protect the interests of Chinese companies.
China Calls the Law Discriminatory
China’s Commerce Ministry has accused France of using environmental and sustainability criteria to create what Beijing described as unequal treatment for businesses.
Chinese officials have argued that the legislation could conflict with the World Trade Organization’s non-discrimination principles, particularly because major Chinese e-commerce platforms are prominent players in the ultra-fast-fashion market.
On Thursday, Chinese Commerce Ministry spokesperson Huang Ling called on France to immediately suspend the law. She said China was firmly opposed to what Beijing considers a trade-restrictive measure.
China also warned that if France continues with the policy, it would take necessary measures to safeguard the legitimate rights and interests of Chinese enterprises. Beijing has not, however, announced any specific retaliatory measures so far.
France Rejects the Accusations
French officials have strongly denied that the legislation discriminates against Chinese businesses.
A source from France’s Foreign Trade and Attractiveness office said the law was not discriminatory and was introduced primarily to address the environmental impact of ultra-fast fashion and protect consumers.
French authorities also said China is entitled to raise technical concerns about the legislation through the WTO.
Paris has maintained that the legislation was approved by the French Parliament and that the government intends to respect the decision.
The French government has also pushed back against China’s warning of possible consequences, describing such threats as economic pressure while emphasizing that the law applies according to defined environmental and business criteria rather than nationality.
New Fees Put Pressure on Ultra-Fast Fashion
France’s new legislation introduces additional environmental contributions for products that fall within the country’s definition of ultra-fast fashion.
The fees range from approximately €0.25 to €12 per item in 2026, depending on how products score against criteria including the volume of new items placed on the market and repair-related factors.
The maximum contribution is scheduled to increase over time, reaching €20 per item by 2030.
The policy is aimed at business models that continuously introduce large numbers of inexpensive products. French policymakers argue that this model encourages overconsumption, increases waste and contributes to environmental damage.
The additional costs could eventually be passed on to consumers through higher prices.
Shein and Temu Among the Platforms Affected
The measures are particularly significant for companies such as Shein and Temu, whose business models rely heavily on large volumes of low-priced products sold online.
Both platforms have faced increasing scrutiny in Europe over environmental concerns, consumer protection, product standards and the broader impact of ultra-fast fashion.
France’s move comes as European governments are increasingly examining the environmental and economic consequences of low-cost online retail.
Shein Faces Additional Pressure
The French measures arrive at an important moment for Shein.
The company recently began trading on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange after abandoning or delaying previous plans for listings in other major financial markets.
Shein’s Hong Kong debut was weak, with shares falling as much as around 10% during the first trading session before recovering some of their losses. Reuters reported that investors remain concerned about the company’s growth prospects and increasing regulatory risks.
The company is also facing pressure from changing import-duty rules and higher logistics costs in major markets. These developments are putting additional strain on a business model built around selling inexpensive products to consumers in the United States and Europe.
Europe’s Wider Regulatory Push
France’s action is part of a broader European debate over how governments should regulate ultra-fast fashion and low-value online imports.
Authorities across Europe are examining issues ranging from environmental impact and waste to product safety, consumer protection and the competitive pressure placed on traditional retailers.
France has gone further than many other European countries by introducing a specific framework targeting ultra-fast-fashion business models.
The European Commission has also raised questions about some aspects of France’s legislation, particularly provisions concerning advertising and influencer marketing, although French authorities say the law has been revised and is compatible with European requirements.
A Potential Trade Dispute
The disagreement between France and China could develop into a broader trade dispute if Beijing decides to challenge the measures through the WTO or introduce retaliatory steps.
France maintains that its policy is based on environmental and consumer considerations and does not discriminate according to the nationality of a company.
China, meanwhile, argues that the practical impact of the rules falls disproportionately on Chinese businesses, particularly major platforms such as Shein and Temu.
For now, neither side has announced further concrete action. But the dispute highlights a growing challenge for governments around the world: how to balance environmental protection and consumer interests with international trade rules in an increasingly global online marketplace.
As ultra-fast-fashion platforms continue to expand, France’s approach could also become a model or a warning for other countries considering similar regulations.
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